Cinephile Summer Camp: A Dispatch from Tilda & Mark’s Magical “Pilgrimage”

by Peter Knegt (August 10, 2009)
Cinephile Summer Camp: A Dispatch from Tilda & Mark’s Magical “Pilgrimage”
Tilda Swinton and Mark Cousins welcome "a pilgrimage." Photo by Peter Knegt.

Eight and a half days ago, at a train station in a tiny Scottish village, I stood awkwardly with forty strangers, holding a placard that read simply “Lillian Gish.”  I held it high as a train full of people arrived at the station.  Some of them weren’t getting off the train, and the looks on their faces as they watched us enthusiastically welcome those who were was the first inkling of the magic that was about to materialize.  For I had managed to find myself on “A Pilgrimage,” Tilda Swinton and Mark Cousins’ cross between a film festival, a summer camp, a circus and a dream. Only those folks who grew from strangers on a train station platform into a temporary family will ever truly know the magic that Swinton and Cousins somehow managed to foster, but I feel it’s necessary to attempt to articulate it anyway.

The sign that Cousins was holding up that day read “make visible what, without you, might never have been seen.”  Quoting Robert Bresson, it’s a notion that has been etched in my mind for the entire duration of the event.  As a journalist it reads like a daunting invitation. Objectively reporting on what followed that day feels impossible.  The handful of other journalists along for the ride felt similar apprehension.  Two actually decided against even writing anything, agreeing that experiencing “A Pilgrimage” privately was worth more than any freelance paycheck. But, I disagreed with reservations. As the days wore on, and the experience began to present itself as the continual utopia I’ll always look back on it as, it was clear to me that what was going on here needed to be known. Taking on that responsibility is an overwhelming idea, and one I am not at all confident I’m capable of, but if my recollection could inspire others to consider this event as a glowing example of an innovative way to exhibit cinema, I would feel as if I have done some minor justice to this experience.

Tilda Swinton and Mark Cousins help pull The Screen Machine. Photo by Peter Knegt.

Articles in various UK newspapers detailing what was occurring would make their rounds through the pilgrimage.  Written by journalists who had popped into our gaggle for a few hours to interview Swinton and Cousins and take a few photographs, the articles defined the event not by its magic, but by its relation to the accidental celebrity behind it. This article in The Guardian, for example, used the deglamorisation of Tilda Swinton as an entry point into their story, and “Oscar-winning actor” as her defining quality. Or this piece in The Sunday Herald, which called Swinton a “Hollywood star” on repeated occasions despite the fact that she resides in the area of Northern Scotland the newspaper represents.

It is articles like those that make Bresson’s aforementioned quote feel all the more crucial in this regard.  Because, if it wasn’t already clear that Swinton is essentially the antithesis of the term “Hollywood star,” it certainly was over the past eight and half days.  Film history educator, fellow pilgrim, impromptu roadside disco administrator, camp counselor. But not “Hollywood star.”  And she was all of those things in complete partnership with film director and journalist Mark Cousins - one of the most enthusiastic cinephiles you might ever meet - and one often neglected from coverage of the festival because he wasn’t once co-stars with George Clooney or Brad Pitt (not to mention filmmaker Matt Lloyd, who helped organized the event and was thanked by Swinton at screening when she noted her and Cousins “have all these ideas, but Matt makes them happen”) .

What should define A Pilgrimage more than anything is the generosity and creativity that Cousins and Swinton have put forth in facilitating an event that found a way to present cinema as community in such an organic and joyous way.  The forty or fifty people that participated in it - locals and internationals, journalists and filmmakers, children and adults -  went into it incapable of making expectations because the event was so unchartered.  They left it ready to take on their respective paths, themselves inspired by what had just transpired.

The Screen Machine. Photo by Peter Knegt.

The festival was Cousins and Swinton’s follow up to last year’s “Ballerina Ballroom Cinema of Dreams,” which took place entirely in Nairn, Scotland - a seaside town on Scotland’s northern shore.  I had read with fascination about that event - which brought folks from around the world to a former bingo hall which was converted into a cinema, screening some of Swinton and Cousins’ favorite films.  So when I read about this sequel of sorts, I figured passing up such an opportunity - one literally once in a lifetime as Swinton and Cousins have agreed that this incarnation of the festival will never occur again - would be a horrible waste.

After “Ballerina,” Cousins and Swinton decided their festival should hit the road, beginning at that train station, and continuing back to Nairn.  On a red double decker bus, we would travel to seven Scottish villages - most of which had never enjoyed a cinema - screening twelve films programmed by Swinton and Cousins, and themed around journeys and the self-exploration they generate. This was made possible by The Screen Machine, a fabulously decorated, 80-seat mobile indoor cinema following behind the bus.  Once a day, Swinton, Cousins and the pilgrims would get off the bus and physically pull the 37-ton The Screen Machine as far as a mile. 

The festivities officially began as we all gathered on the top floor of the double decker bus. The pilgrims - some friends of Cousins or Swinton, but most - like me - curious folks from dozens of different countries - anxiously began introducing themselves to one another, whispering questions regarding what exactly was about to take place.  As the bus took off through the scenic Scottish Highlands, Swinton and Cousins welcomed us to their “little experiment.” They warned that this was obviously not something they (or anyone) had attempted before, and there might be a few bumps along the road. This proved to accurately foreshadow the day in front of us, which would include heavy rain that soaked many of the campers (I barely salvaged my laptop by leaving the tent in the middle of the night to sleep on the floor of the double decker bus), and the vehicle physically breaking down, leaving us temporarily stranded at our first stop.

Though somehow, the mishaps just added to the magic.  When we awoke from our first sleep on A Pilgrimage, soaked and cold, Cousins was standing outside the campground, holding a placard that read “campers, sorry you got really wet” and handing out cups of coffee and hot chocolate. We all gathered inside the Screen Machine to dry off and enjoy what Cousins announced as the “Scottish premiere” of Iranian filmmaker Mohamed Ali Talebi’s “Bag of Rice.” 

—this dispatch continues on page two—

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posted on August 10, 2009
Films to Snag
Comments
1
eyelid says on August 22, 2009 at 8:16am

Hello Peter,

You don’t know me, but I feel a really strong need to write to you after reading your article about “The Pilgrimage”. I had a big lump in my throath while reading it, I became oddly and strongly moved. Mostly because I get you. I get what you’re saying about not being able to talk about, to describe, and ultimately to really share an experience like that. I think you did a good job. My name is Matilda and last year I was at the Ballerina Ballroom Cinema of Dreams.

For a passionate never-grow-up escapist cinemalover it was just paradise. I’m sure there’s no need to explain why. I didn’t have the money nor the time to participate in this years adventure but in a way I’m completely content with that. I had my share of the magic (fuck, it sounds so cliché, but magic it was, truly) last year and I will never forget that. There is a light that never goes out, indeed.

Also I believe in once in a lifetime experiences and spontaneity (and so seem to do the exquisite Tilda and Mark). I read about the Ballerina on Afterellen, talked to my cinema-enthusiastic mom, and after a week or so we found ourselves on a plane together, flying from Finland (I’m Finnish) to London and took the night train to fairytale-like Nairn. There we were, on the station, like you, unknowing of what was to come.

I’m sure you had even a bigger community/family feeling this year. On the road that often happens, not to mention while pulling an object of an unimaginably heavy weight together. It’s a beautiful feeling isn’t it, having that momentary, trusting and open family feeling between complete strangers. I think it has to do with the fact that you know it’s going to be for only a period of time, you are in it together for a glorious while, and then it’s over. There are no strings attached.
At the Ballerina, for me, there was a feeling of being ageless, genderless, countryless, labelless. Just being yourself and loving cinema and being playful together. You compared Pilgrimage to a dream. To me the festival felt almost as if the time had stopped and we were having and creating a dream together. Judging by your article, while being a unique experience, something like that happened again.

Also, I know how lonely it can feel after any kind of trip, not to mention something as indescribable as the Pilgrimage must have been. You can talk about your trip - the way you live for a while - write about it, but nobody really understands, and frankly, doesn’t usually even care to understand that much. Even though I wasn’t there and I even though I don’t know you, I feel a strange kind of connection to you.

So, thank you, Peter, for your precious article, the attempted trip to your trip, and for the memories it trickered of the one that was mine. I’d give you a hug if I was there.

2
ben77 says on August 13, 2009 at 2:51am

This made me teary-eyed and I wasn’t even there. Thank you for finding making visible what I otherwise never would have seen. They’ll have to be careful, because words like this might make for 10,000 pilgrims next time around.

3
AdamD says on August 11, 2009 at 2:16pm

So that’s what you were tippy-tapping on your laptop in Tilda’s morning room! Well done, Peter, for getting it so right. I’m starting to fear that everyone who wasn’t there will get heartily sick of us Pilgrims going on and on about how brilliant it was - but really, there’s no getting away from it, this was by far the best experience I’ve had in 20 years of festival-going. I think it’s a real challenge to other festivals to question where they are going wrong, why they don’t get anywhere near to this celebration of the sheer joy of cinema. Congratulations and thanks to Mark and Tilda, to Matt, and to everyone who came along and made the 8 1/2 days so special.

4
magnusmog says on August 11, 2009 at 5:14am

I’m sitting at home nursing a cup of coffee and re-living the glory of the State of Cinema. Thanks for summing it up beautifully.

jeni x

5
jmcnally says on August 10, 2009 at 3:09pm

Wow. How did you even find out about this? Would love to see what they come up with next year (hoping that they will do something).

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